AAEG

Stores Seek Jump-Start in Atlanta

Buyers at AAE show shop hot, new urban looks to boost sluggish summer business

By: Brenda Lloyd

ATLANTA -- Many of the men's wear retailers shopping the Atlanta Apparel Exhibition (AAE), July 17 to 18, were looking for ways to give their struggling businesses a boost.

Retailers blamed their sluggish sales on apparel sameness among the brands, hot fashion items changing too quickly, rising gas prices, the continuing war in Iraq and a weak economy for their customers.

The two-day show, held at the Cobb Galleria Centre just four weeks after the AmericasMart's Alpha show, boasted 504 booths, including 48 new or returning lines. Le Tigre and Kenneth Cole Reaction showed for the first time, as did IMI, Eklectik Genes and Chilly-O -- all new lines in the urban market. Returing brands included Pelle Pelle, Maurice Malone and Pony. Carolyn Rey, show director, said the show was the same size as the last one in April and that buyer traffic was steady and "very heavy" during peak hours.

Many of the retailers went to both Atlanta shows. Gilad Halperin, regional manager and buyer for the two USA Boutique stores in Atlanta, booked some merchandise from Chilly-O for immediate delivery and from IMI for end-of-August delivery. He said he did most of his fall and holiday buying at the Alpha show in June, and will do more at MAGIC.

Like many urban retailers, Halperin said business is a struggle: "Everyone is having a hard time now in the urban market, which has changed so much lately." In a relatively short period of time, the hot trend went from jerseys to white T-shirts, to button-front woven shirts, to knit polo shirts, he said, and the consumer now wants items, not brand names. Meanwhile, sales reps want the buyers to book the complete line, not items.

Halperin said his company was focusing on exclusive brands like Chilly-O, which is selling to USA Boutique exclusively in downtown Atlanta, and on marketing.

Kevin Pak, president of Kaemin's, Rocky Mount, N.C., said business in his 5,000-square-foot store has been strong for the past two to 2 1/2 years. He's been successful with loose-fitting knit pique shirts, track jackets, team caps and footwear that are color-coordinated. "Anything that hooks up with a cap is what's driving my business," he said, adding that when business slows down in the summer months, the caps and shirts help make up the slack.

At the show, Pak booked a small percentage of open-to-buy (10 percent) for fall and holiday. He used the show to "see if anything pops out." He booked "nicer," short-sleeved pique shirts from Coogi and Le Tigre.

Mat Ibrahim, owner, FreeStyle Clothing, Melbourne, Fla., said sales in his five stores were okay; he expects business to pick up for back-to-school. He was at the show primarily for short-sleeved pique polo knit shirts, denim shorts, fleece sets, T-shirts and caps -- all with color hook-ups -- for holiday from Girbaud, Pepe and Evolution.

Grover Cannon, owner of Cannon's Men Shop, Goldsboro, N.C., was making his initial buys for fall and holiday for his three fashion stores and booked 50 to 75 percent of both seasons here.

Because the economy has been soft, Cannon said he is buying closer to need. His consumer, he noted, is still buying but "he's cautious and buying what he needs -- not what he wants."

Describing style changes in the fashion suit business, Cannon said jacket lengths have shortened from 42 inches to 34 or 36 inches; consumers now prefer double vents to non-vented; seven-button suits are out and three- or four-button suits are in, and neckwear is now sold as a matched set of tie, handkerchief and cufflinks. Customers still want a shirt with a spread collar and cufflinks, he said.

His own business has been down for the past six months, which Cannon attributed first to gas prices and the Iraq war. "But I'm still optimistic about the [tailored] clothing business," he said.

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